As stated earlier, I used a teo part urethane primer called Advantage 312. The instructions called for a 4:1 mix ration with the catalyst, and it could be applied with a brush, roller, or even an HVLP spray gun. Since I am currently compressorless, I chose the combination of roller method and brush for the detail work.
This particular primer seemed to go a long way, and it seemed that a gallon was more than enough to do the job. I was able to easily lay down two caots, saving the rest for additional coats once I had performed the filler work.
The first coat seemed to dry in 15-20 minutes, and I had the entire roof done in less than two hours.
The light gray color seemed to really expose the pits and crevices in the foam core that were left behind from removing the old ABS shell. This would proved perfect for going back and laying in the filler. Also, the urethane primer was highly recommended for the polyester to adhere.
The light gray color seemed to really expose the pits and crevices in the foam core that were left behind from removing the old ABS shell. This would proved perfect for going back and laying in the filler. Also, the urethane primer was highly recommended for the polyester to adhere.
For the filler, I chose a glazing putty made by Evercoat. It came highly recommended by the paint shop for the work I would be doing.
I let the primer set in for several hours then went back along the edges on which I found any pits, spreading an abundant amount of the putty over each spot I could find.
As the sun set for the evening I wheeled the trailer back into the garage. allowing for the glazing putty to set in overnight. Hopefully the lower night temperatures do not affect the curing process as it is supposed to get get down around 37 degrees fahrenheit for the low.
More to come..
Cool stuff you have got and you keep update all of us.
ReplyDeleteRoof Repair